A very basic, boxy sweater with set-in sleeves and no shaping, knit from the bottom up in aran to chunky-weight yarn. The body is done in stockinette with the cuffs, hem, and neckband in garter stitch.
The sweater is knit from the bottom up in one piece up to the armholes starting with a garter-stitch hem band. The upper front and back are knit separately to shape the armholes, crew neck, and shoulders. The set-in sleeves are knit from the cuff up starting with a garter -stitch cuff.
Stitches are picked up for the garter-stitch neckband. Finally the sleeves are sewn to the armholes.
Required skills: knit and purl stitches, working in the round, basic increases and decreases, seaming.
Novita Isoveli (75% wool, 25% nylon, 130 m/100 g), approx. 8 skeins. The sample sweater is knitted in the colorway moss green (#034).
Or aran to chunky-weight yarn, approx. 1040 m / 1140 yd.
4.5 mm / US #7 straight and circular needles for garter stitch
5.5 mm / US #9 straight and circular needles for stockinette (or size to obtain gauge)
If not working in magic loop, double-pointed needles in the same sizes for the sleeves
2 stitch markers: one movable, one locking
Waste yarn or spare circular needle for holding stitches
One size: women's medium
Bust circumference: approx. 96 cm / 37¾"
Body length: approx. 58 cm / 22¾"
Sleeve length: approx. 47 cm / 18½"
18 sts × 23 rows = 10 cm / 4" in stockinette on larger needles, blocked
CO 178 sts on smaller straight needles. Work in garter stitch for 3 cm / 1¼". Change to larger circular needles and join in the round, being careful not to twist the work. Place a marker for beginning of round. Work in stockinette and dec 1 st at both ends of the row; 176 sts. Work even until the body measures approx. 35 cm / 13¾".
BO 3 sts, K84 (85 sts on the needle). Slip the remaining 88 sts on a holder for back. BO 3 sts at the beginning of the next row. Work in stockinette for 14 rows, and dec 1 st at each end of the next and every following alternate row; 68 sts. Work even until the front measures approx. 51 cm / 20" (armhole measures approx. 16 cm / 6¼"), ending after a WS row.
Work neck shaping for the two sides separately at both neck edges.
Next row (RS): K27, slip the next 14 sts to a holder. Join a second ball of yarn and K the remaining 27 sts. BO 3 sts once, 2 sts twice, and 1 st twice on every other row at the neck edge. Repeat for the other side, reversing shaping; 18 sts per side.
Work the should shaping separately for the two sides at each armhole edge.
When the front measures approx. 57 cm / 22½" (or the armhole measures approx. 22 cm / 8½"), BO 9 sts at armhole edge on the next row. Work 1 row even, then BO the remaining 9 sts. Repeat for the other side, reversing shaping.
Place the 88 sts from holder back onto larger needles. BO 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Work in stockinette for 14 rows, and dec 1 st at each end of the next and every following alternate row; 68 sts. Work even until the back measures approx. 51 cm / 20" (armhole measures approx. 16 cm / 6¼"), ending after a WS row.
Work neck shaping for the two sides separated at both neck edges.
Next row (RS): K25, slip the next 18 sts to a holder. Join a second ball of yarn and K the remaining 25 sts. BO 3 sts once, and 2 sts twice on every other row at the neck edge. Repeat for the other side, reversing shaping; 18 sts per side.
Work the should shaping as for the front.
CO 41 sts on the smaller needles. Place a locking stitch marker to mark the last stitch of the row. Work in garter stitch for 3 cm / 1¼".
Change to larger circular needle (or double-pointed needles) and join in the round, being careful not to twist the work. Work even in stockinette until the sleeve measures approx. 9 cm / 3½".
Inc Rnd: Inc 1 st at each end of next row making the increases before and after the marked stitch.
Repeat the Inc Rnd 15 more times every 5 rnds; 73 sts. Work even until the sleeve measures approx. 47 cm / 18½".
To shape the cap, work back and forth.
Next row (RS): BO 4 sts at the beginning of the next row, K to end.
Next row (WS): BO 3 sts at the beginning of the next row, P to end.
Then dec 1 st at each end of every row 7 times (52 sts remaining), 1 st at each end of every second row 9 times (34 sts remaining), and 1 st at each end of every row 7 times. BO the remaining 20 sts loosely.
Make the other sleeve the same way.
Sew the left shoulder of front and back together using invisible horizontal seaming.
With RS of work facing and starting from the right right back neck edge, pick up and knit (approx.) 89 sts on smaller needles:
10 sts from right back neck edge
K 18 sts from back neck holder
10 sts from left back neck edge
1 st from left shoulder seam
18 sts from left front neck edge
K 14 sts from front neck holder
18 sts from right front neck edge
Next row (WS): K to end.
Next row (RS): K13, [K2tog, K3] 3 times, K29, (K2tog, K2) 4 times, K16; 7 sts decreased, 82 sts.
Work in garter stitch until the neck band measures 3 cm / 1¼ in. BO loosely.
Sew the right shoulder and neck band seam. Sew on the sleeves. Seam the hem garter band seam using Mattress Stitch. Weave in all ends and block lightly.
Is this pattern available in other sizes?
Unfortunately not. This was the first sweater pattern I ever designed (back in 2001!). I made it me-sized and decided to offer it for free on my website. The pattern has not been graded for additional sizes but here are some tips for resizing the pattern to fit you. Converting Sweater Patterns . . to Fit Your Swatch Gauge.
The yarn you used is very hard to find in the U.S. Do you have a suggested substitute?
Look for a yarn in the worsted, aran or even chunky category with similar yardage (130 m/10 g), that gives you the same gauge (18 sts × 23 rows = 10 cm / 4"), and has a similar fiber composition (75% wool, 25% nylon). I'd suggest using Berroco Vintage, Lion Brand Wool-Ease or Garnstudio DROPS Nepal. For more suggestions, do an advanced search on Ravelry.